To pedal and walk on Pantelleria is to get in tune with the breath of the island. It is to follow the line of the dry stone walls that draw it, to skim the dammusi with white domes, to walk along paths of black earth where time is slow, to be enveloped by the wild breath of the caper, holm oak and heather. Rent a bike or hike, among the paths of an island that reveals itself only to those who wish to listen.